Happy Diwali!

Namaskar all and Happy Diwali!

Coming back from Kuari Pass was a bit of a letdown at first, but the time has been well spent! I have been continuing my four hours of Hindi classes a day and picked up my first Garhwali class last week. My Hindi has made me quite functional here in India as I get to put it to use quite a bit. I really enjoy speaking with the people around me and understanding what I hear as I meet people walking down the street. It’s also a bonus when I leave Mussoorie because few people expect the white young American to speak Hindi. Rather, most Indians expect foreigners to come to India to do yoga and meditation.

Here is a quick note on the election to give you a feel for the Mussoorie-Indian perspective on the American presidential race. Every teacher at my school and outside (with whom I spoke) was in favor of Obama. It is really interesting to see the respect so many foreigners (both Indian and European) have for him. In addition, I sometimes felt like they were getting the information about the election much faster than me. I think my teacher actually knew Obama won before I did. In terms of policy (mostly foreign), one of the language teachers expressed his agreement with Obama’s stance on all issues, that is on everything about U.S. aid to Pakistan (not too surprising). As far as their attitudes towards Mitt Romney, I am not sure if they did not know much about him or disliked his policies. It did not seem like any of the people I met considered him a good alternative to Obama. As you can imagine, the school was a happy place on Wednesday.

After my classes and the presidential acceptance speech, I went to Delhi. I had some work which was really successful. On my way to Delhi, I met an organization in Dehradun which trains women who are becoming active in the local village councils (Panchayats) for the election process and performing their responsibilities. Beginning in 2008 in Uttarakhand, there is a 50 percent reserve for women to sit on the village councils. They make decisions which directly impact villages and their use of natural resources including clean drinking water. It was important for me to make a connection with this innovative organization as I become immersed in my research.

In Delhi, I met with my adviser who put me in touch with someone who will help me make my survey. They already had a questionnaire which I can use as a starting point, so I am working on some revisions currently. If all goes well, I will be testing my survey in December and the beginning of January before I get started with the actual interview process. I am feeling much better about the preparation for my research now that I have a starting point with my survey (which is the crux of my research). However, I still have lots of preparation and work ahead of me!

A quick note on my visit to my affiliation. I am working with a large economics research institute based in Delhi. When I visited their office on Friday, they had a Diwali celebration in which all these economists got on stage singing, dancing, and reciting poetry. Although I am sure they will stick to their day jobs, it was really fun to see them represent so many states in India and be proud of their diversity.

When you ask an Indian what good things the British did for India, you will get a variety of answers. However, there is one answer that almost everyone provides: the rail system. They are absolutely correct. One of my favorite things about India (as I have mentioned before) is the Indian rail system. Again, I took an overnight train from Dehradun to Delhi. In general, I find the public transportation here inexpensive, convenient, and mostly comfortable. Obviously, there are horror stories of packed trains and buses. However, the frequency of the transportation and the affordability is incredible! Here is the economic breakdown of my transportation to and from cities over the last weekend:

• ·          Bus Mussoorie to Dehradun (1.5 hours, leaves every hour) – 47 Rs (less than $1)

• ·         Train Dehradun to Delhi (10 hours, overnight – I slept great because they have beds!) – 650 Rs (about $13)

• ·         Bus back to Dehradun from Delhi (9 hours, overnight – Would have been fine if the roads were in better condition, but I still had a bed.) – 650 Rs ($13)

• ·         Bus from Rishikesh to Dehradun (I stopped for some rafting – see below.) (1.5 hours, I had a seat.) – 41 Rs (less than $1)

• ·         Vikram to my next bus in Dehradun (20 minutes) – 5 Rs

• ·         Deluxe bus back to Mussoorie from Dehradun (1.5 hours) – 75 Rs

Total Cost: 1468 Rs (less than $30)

I find it pretty unbelievable that I was able to get around to all these places by public transportation. In some cases, it cost me a bit more time, but I save time and money with the overnight trains. Also, I really enjoy the conversation which happens on the train and bus, especially in Hindi. For example, on my bus last night back from Rishikesh, I met two very nice Indian women. They could not believe that an American was sitting with them on the bus telling them in Hindi that she likes India and actually lives here. From talking with them, I actually met another really nice man who helped me save some time getting to my next bus. The ability to communicate in Hindi is incredible. I feel like I finally am starting to understand what is happening around me! Plus, people are really friendly and helpful!

I do have to say that the public transportation here is not entirely straightforward which is why one of two things is required: either you have to speak Hindi or make friends with someone who knows how to get around. For example, I got completely annoyed trying to set up my account to book my train ticket, but once it worked, I was happy. I was able to get it set up because one of my friends who is well-acquainted with India helped me. Also, I would have spent a lot longer on the bus than necessary if I had not spoken Hindi. However, because I made it clear where I wanted to go and what I was doing, some nice locals gave me the inside scoop. On the other hand, if you want to get from point A to B without the hassle, you can get charged the foreigners’ rate by taking a taxi (1,600 Rs one way from Rishikesh to Mussoorie). For me (when I have time and energy), I prefer the public transportation. It’s fun to look around and listen to people’s conversations. They are often talking about the mundane things of everyday life, much like we do in the U.S.

Even though India is a developing country, it has one up on the U.S. in my book. Although I had never looked into it very closely before, I would not be able to get from Cincinnati to Evansville easily without a car. I just looked up the Greyhound schedule for such a trip which would take between 8 and 14 hours by bus (I could drive myself in about 3 hours), and cost $54. Some parts of the U.S. are easier to access by public transportation, but in India, it is much more set up to reach all different areas. Even when I was out in the middle of the Himalayas, I would have been able to get a shared taxi all the way out to remote villages (those of which are accessible by highway). Despite other shortcomings (and there is plenty of room for improvement in the Indian transportation system), the power of public transportation puts all of India within reach.

Did I also mention, that you are able to cancel train and bus tickets booked in advance at any point, including after the train/bus has left? Talk about convenience! You only lose a very small percentage on the fare.

[One short note: Although public transportation is cheap for a Westerner like me, many people do not travel far outside their homes. Not only does travel itself cost money, but it also results in a loss of time when people could be working. For example, Bina (who works at my guesthouse) has never been to Delhi. However, she is able to go to Dehradun, the closest bigger city, when required.]

I know many people will be interested in my rafting trip, but I think it will be better told in the pictures, which will have to be posted at a later date. I had a wonderful time rafting on the Ganga outside Rishikesh (a sacred city where the Beetles stayed in an ashram – needless to say a lot of “hippies” end up there). The whole trip was about 35 km and took about six hours. We went over 3 or 4 class three rapids (one of which was a 3+). The water level was relatively low since the monsoon has been over for about two months. The class 1 rapids were also fun! We had pleasant weather, but the water was really cold (it’s a glacier fed river)! Luckily, we were provided wetsuits. I even jumped in for about a minute. Along the way, we even stopped off for lunch on a sandy beach along the river. It was a blast! Before going, I only had the Holiday World (amusement park) ride “Raging Rapids” for comparison. The good part about this trip was that I did not have to wait in line and the rapids were much more exciting!

Diwali began last night and the entire bazaar is decorated. Imagine Christmas with flowers instead of trees, fireworks, and lights everywhere. All the sweet shops have removed their normal tables and have tons of sweets everywhere. I went in a shop tonight and tasted at least 4 different types before buying a few as a gift. As I am writing this, I hear the firecrackers going off outside. I’m lucky to be safe inside right now. Diwali must be dreaded by all the doctors in India. Safety is not a top priority, and you better watch out if you see a young boy running down the street.

प्यार के साथ (With love),

Margaret

Pictures to be forthcoming (I will be getting them from my friends). I apologize for all the words. =)