Tuesday, June 25, 2013

A South Indian Wedding

A South Indian Wedding

So I have managed to avoid most of the flooding problems because I have been traveling for Ashwin’s wedding. Ashwin is a friend from school who I have mentioned in a few previous posts. He just had his marriage in Nagpur, Maharashtra (the center of India). They had a Hindu Brahmin Tamil wedding. I will have to show pictures when I get my internet is working better. (if that ever happens)

Day 1: I actually missed this, but there was a sangeet – with lots of music and dancing.

Day 2: I arrived in time for the “engagement.” They already had been engaged for six months and had an engagement party back in January. However, this was more formal for everyone to come through and congratulate the couple and their families. There were some blessing ceremonies performed by the pandit, followed by food (dosas and sambar), and then everyone walked up to shake hands with the couple. Afterwards, there was more food and then dancing. The food included everything you could possibly imagine: soup, street food/snacks, rice, roti, dal, vegetables, paneer, and a dessert table bigger than you could ever imagine. There was so much variety, and everything I ate was incredibly delicious. My favorite dessert was the kulfi which is always what I chose. It is an ice cream made of really creamy milk and either almonds or pistachios. After eating all this food, we really needed to dance it off. We stayed until about midnight dancing to Hindi songs. Ashwin, in a very uncharacteristic fashion, had to call the party off because we all had to be back in the morning for his actual wedding.

Day 3: This was the official wedding. It began about 7:30am. They provided breakfast to start off the day. We ate idly and sambar served on banana leaves with small cups of chai. The ceremonies lasted from 7:30am to about 11:30am. However, the bride and groom had to stay the entire day doing pujas and greeting everyone. They were exhausted!! The ceremony itself was very interesting as it followed the Tamil tradition. Ashwin was the focus and began by having to make a decision. He was set up to choose a married life or a life of asceticism. He chose a life of asceticism (as is the tradition). Then, the bride’s father came to him and offered his daughter to Ashwin in marriage. After some persuading, Ashwin accepted his offer to marry Deepika.

Next, Deepika and Ashwin had to play some games and follow some more rituals. First, there was a game where they were each hoisted on their family members’ shoulders. They had to try to throw garlands around each other’s necks while the other was being moved out of the way. Ashwin had the advantage because his friends were taller. Plus, Deepika was wearing a beautiful sari which was nine meters long and was all made up. Still, she managed to get the garlands around Ashwin’s neck too. After this, Ashwin and Deepika sat down together and their aunts came to give them blessings. Both Ashwin and Deepika had to drink a bunch of milk and then their family members were throwing sweets to the periphery of the crowd. Deepika really hates milk, so she had a very funny look on her face the whole time.

The final step was the actually wedding. After a couple hours of Ashwin chanting mantras after the pandit and walking around the stage, they were married. Ashwin apparently kept saying the mantras incorrectly, so his family and the pandit were laughing at him the whole time. The final step was giving Deepika a gold chain. She will wear this as a sign of her marriage as well as toe rings. Everyone threw rice on the new couple and then came around to congratulate them. We all were treated to another delicious lunch of rice, sambar, papad, yogurt, curry vegetables, banana chips, kheer, and julebi. Again, this was served on banana leaves. It was incredible!

After the wedding, I, along with some Xavier friends, came back to the hotel to nap. We were exhausted because there had been very little sleep involved in the last few days.

The past few days have been lots of fun and traveling. I have been spending it with a group of six other people who know Ashwin. Many of them went to Xavier, but they are from all different countries (Spain, France, Germany, and the U.S.) We started at the Pench National Park near Nagpur. We tried to see some tigers but only spotted a few deer, monkeys, bamboo, and a lot of rain. Still, the park was beautiful, and it was nice to be out of the city.

We have been in Hyderabad since the park where we are sightseeing around the city and staying Ashwin’s apartment. The first day, we visited a big Buddha on the lake in Hyderabad and the Birla Mundir (temple). Yesterday, we went to Char Minar (four pillared ‘gate’) at the center of Hyderabad in the Muslim neighborhood. Here we visited the Mecca mosque and Chowaman Palace. The palace was my favorite as it was out of the crowds of the city. It had beautiful architecture, carvings, artwork, and gardens. We also saw a Bollywood movie last night. It was quite dramatic and tragic but did include some nice songs and dance scenes. Today, we are visiting the Golconda fort. I have also enjoyed going with another of the girls on morning walks in the surrounding neighborhoods. We try to avoid the busy streets and see some of the beautiful trees and nice houses.

Tomorrow, we will head to Vijayawada to hang out with Ashwin some more. It should be fun! If all my travel plans are on time, I get back to Uttarakhand on the morning of July 2. Then, I should be back to the villages by the 3rd. I am looking forward to getting back to my mountain state but do not know what it will look like in terms of road conditions due to the damage. Therefore, my plans may have to change accordingly. In addition, I think the rains will be picking up for monsoon. My plan is to stay in each of the next places I visit for at least a month, so I don’t have to get on the roads. The good news is that I am going to areas which do not normally experience as much damage as I explained in my previous post.

 I wore a sari to the wedding. I did pretty well for the first couple hours and then everything started slipping. No, I did not tie it myself.

Dosas - Delicious wedding food.

                                                              Pench National Park

Buddha on the water in Hyderabad


                                                               Birla Mundir, Hyderabad

                                                                      Mecca Mosque, Hyderabad

The XU group.

Ashwin's sister and niece.
Wedding games. Ashwin's friends were taller!
The Mosque in Hyderabad.
A rainy day at the national park.
Shopping in Hyderabad.
The "engagement" - outside our hotel.
The bride and groom.

The Flooding in Uttarakhand



The Flooding in Uttarakhand

I don’t know if the news from Uttarakhand has made it to the States, but there has been a lot of damage in the state where I am living due to pre-monsoon rains which took place on June 16. I was staying in Sabli village during this time. It rained for about 40 hours straight, and it was not just a sprinkle. It fluctuated between downpour and heavy rain. Unfortunately, this meant I spent my entire last day in Sabli inside hoping the rain would stop or at least slow down. I did get some time to catch up on my writing, pack up my belongings, paint a picture (just a fun watercolor with some of the kids), and play some cards. Rakesh said the rain was like nothing he had ever seen before. The morning when I left, we walked down the path (the rain had stopped), and there was water pouring down the terrace fields like waterfalls. It was unbelievable.

The Current Situation

I made it safely to Dehradun from Sabli although there were a few landslides along the way which had been cleared off. We were lucky because this area got a lot of rain but not the damage that the rest of the state is experiencing. Because the monsoon came early, pilgrims were traveling to the Himalayas at this time of the year to visit sacred temples at the Char Dham – Kedarnath, Badrinath, Yamunotri, and Gangotri (four sacred points from which the major rivers in India begin). This means that people from all over the country were in Uttarakhand during this flood. Kedarnath experienced the most publicized damage. At least 30-40,000 people were at the temple (which was demolished by the flood) and were stranded because of the flood that hit. This pilgrimage is supposed to be closed at least for a year while rebuilding takes place. The chief minister of Uttarakhand believes that the damage caused across the state will put them back three years in terms of development. In a state that is already lagging behind in roads and infrastructure, this is a huge blow. [Uttarakhand officially became a state in 2000, and partially because it is a mountain state, there is still a lot of infrastructure being built.] The central government and state governments throughout India have been reaching out to respond to this “Himalayan tsunami.” According to the newspapers, the situation of the stranded pilgrims is now under control. The Indo-Tibetan border police and the military have responded on the ground. Rations of food, blankets, and other supplies have been flown in to meet their immediate needs. Because one of the state’s biggest industries is tourism, this is obviously their first priority. However, it has taken over a week to ten days, and there still remains a lot to be done.

Evidence of Climate Change

As to be expected, the news has focused on the people who were traveling on pilgrimage to these various temples and were caught off-guard by this storm. However, what is not in the news as much is the local impact and the people living in villages. Many of the pilgrims – the documented toll is up to 58 – have perished as a result of the disaster. However, the numbers in villages and undocumented Nepali workers must be much higher. I have no idea what a good estimate is, but a local from the Uttarkashi area at one point told me the toll could be between 5 and 15 thousand people. Unfortunately, for the people of Uttarkashi, they had a similar problem last year. In and around Uttarkashi, they suffered from a cloud burst (flash flood) which cut the village off from road access for at least a month and a half. They were running out of food rations which had to be flown in. This year, the same situation is happening not just in Uttarkashi, but also in the Valley of Flowers, Kedarnath, Badrinath, and Rishikesh. All of these places are along rivers where people have lost their homes, crops, and livelihoods. To top it off, they are also now cut off from an easy source of back-up supplies because the roads have been destroyed. What is very scary is that so many of the people affected or those who have been killed will not be documented. For example, when the Nepali workers in the Uttarkashi flood in 2012 died, it was impossible to estimate the numbers. They come to this area to do construction work and require no visa to get into the country. They live in make-shift settlements which are not sturdy and are sometimes on the banks of rivers which make them more vulnerable.

The newspapers are pointing the finger at climate change as the cause for this catastrophe. This is an accurate description as the state of Uttarakhand (and the Himalayas as a whole) has been experiencing shifts in precipitation patterns over the past decade. Unseasonal rains, floods, and droughts are not just documented from the meteorological departments. Farmers and locals know this better. Their crops are being affected because they rely entirely on rainfall and have very little “back-up” irrigation. In addition to the lost homes and lives, the crop loss as a result of this flooding has been enormous.

Environmental Justice

What is disheartening to me about this damage is that the people being most severely impacted by this so-called climate change are those who know the best about living off the land and causing little damage. Although it is argued that the grazing of cattle and cutting of trees done by villagers causes deforestation and barren lands, which increases erosion, siltation, and causes landslides, their impact is relatively minor. When I came to India in 2010, I was studying the Tehri Dam, built under a joint partnership with the government of India and the state government of Uttar Pradesh. This dam is built on an earthquake fault line, displaced 100,000 people, and created a lake (reservoir) which is 42 square kilometers large. In addition to the loss of flora and fauna from the region and the increase in erosion, dams are known to cause micro-climate change. They interrupt the hydrologic cycle and change the terrain. Many of the locals cite the Tehri dam as one of the causes to this climate change. Frighteningly, the warnings against the negative effects of dams are not being taken seriously. The government of India continues to commission and build dams in the Himalayas. 
 One article from the New York Times explains that the government of India plans to respond to its “electricity crisis” by building more dams in the Himalayas. The projection is 292 dams, which is roughly one dam every 30 kilometers. Most of these projects fall in the range of large dams (which have a height of 100 m or higher) and also cause the most disruption. Locals are getting pushed off their land and their livelihoods are being negatively affected because of these “development” projects.

When you talk with the locals about these projects, they do not want them. They understand the value of their environment and maintaining it for the long term. For example, the Chipko movement, which was started in a village called Reni (about a kilometer from Lata where I went in April), counters this very notion. Women began hugging trees in order to prevent deforestation to their immediate surroundings. They wanted to save the environment for future generations because they understood the connection between humans and nature. Although there was significant success from this women’s movement to save forests, the same villagers are still being impacted by projects outside their control. These people used to travel with their sheep to graze and used them as their source of livelihood. However, the lands they formerly relied on have now been closed off in the name of environmental protection. The Nanda Devi (highest Indian Himalayan peak) biosphere was created in 1992 and shut them off from medicinal plants, fodder, and fuel. Now, right below this “protection zone” a dam is being built to provide this electricity that we all “need.” Talking with people who live near the Tehri dam and those living near Lata, I get the same story. They do not want the electricity.

It sometimes seems so hard to connect to nature living in cities with well-manicured lawns, architecturally designed parks, and all this “created” nature. We think we need electricity 24-hours a day, all the latest technology, and the “conveniences” of modern life. However, we don’t really know what it means to live off nature and connect to things that really make us happy. Although I could be working all the time, I find myself much happier in these mountain settings around people who take time to talk and spend time with me. I am not saying that we all need to return to this way of life, but I think we should at least value it and recognize that our actions do have consequences. The people living in Delhi who get their drinking water from the Tehri dam do not think about the damage being caused to what was once the pristine Himalayas. However, if we connected to people and realized that they have much the same thoughts, desires, and feelings as us, we would probably not want to cause them so much harm.

Going Forward

For my research, this flash flood will be an interesting twist, and one I can write about in my report. It will bring together my research from 2010 with my current research. I will be able to ask more people what they see as the cause and how they want to respond. It will also bring some much needed money from outside back into the state. However, I doubt it will cause policy makers to look at their own projects as one of the factors causing this extreme destruction. The good news is that the local communities although they do not have a lot of resources are coming together. People throughout India know what happened and are reaching out to offer help.

My friend (who was living in India until June) is putting together a fund to collect money for the impacted villages which have lost bridges, roads, and infrastructure as a result of the flooding. I also have another friend who is trained in disaster relief who will be traveling to some of the affected areas. If anyone else wants to help, I am sure your prayers are greatly needed!

Supplies going by train for the Uttarakhand disaster.


Monday, June 10, 2013

My Summer Camp and Other Adventures


My Summer Camp and Other Adventures

So I am into my third week of my summer camp. It’s been lots of fun but definitely not easy. I do not have good classroom management. My goal is just to try to keep the kids as busy as possible so they don’t have time to get into trouble. This only works some of the time. Unfortunately, I have to compete with the computers for attention. All the kids want to be on the computers constantly. The only problem is that there are only four working computers and 20-25 of them. We do our best to give them equal time, but there are the kids who sneak in there or won’t leave. Things have gotten more under control because we are now three teachers instead of two, but it is still a challenge.

Despite the noise level and headache after the kids leave, we are having quite a bit of fun. We sing, dance, play games, play on the computer, joke, chat, and make pretty pictures. I am learning a decent amount of Garhwali and Nepali which is a lot of fun. (I now know some nice songs and am working on the vocabulary and grammar. I think I will learn pretty quickly now that I am getting the basics.) I am also improving my Hindi! The kids are super cute. They are having so much fun! They really like capture the flag, scavenger hunts, and “Down by the Banks” (for those of you who remember those games. Basically, I have sectioned the kids into two groups: grammar for the older ones (16 and above) and games and songs for the younger ones. We are planning our big program for the morning of the 17th. I have put together a slideshow of pictures from the activities, and the kids are preparing skits, pictures, songs, and dances. Although it doesn’t look like it now, I think it will come together nicely. The kids are really creative!

In other news, I have been doing some sightseeing within and around the village. We went to Rakesh’s old house twice where they have converted their farm into a Timeroo (tree) plantation with the help of an American. This is an endangered tree in the Himalayas. However, it has incredible medicinal potential. It helps get rid of parasites and cleans your teeth. Eating the seeds is even more intense than using Listerine mouthwash. Your mouth tingles from it! It’s really neat! HIMCON (NGO) is planning to make toothpastes and essential oils in the next few years (the trees take a while to grow). They will also sell some to farmers and for ornamental purposes.

One of my favorite things that I cannot get enough of here is the fresh fruit off the trees. There are wild apricots growing here! They are incredible! Plus, I just learned that you can break the seed open and eat the nut inside. It’s a lot like an almond. Pretty amazing! Try it on your apricots at home. I also got to eat some grapes right off the vine the other day! Now if I could just be staying with a farming family instead of an NGO family, I would be getting to drink buffalo/fresh cow’s milk and eating local millets. आने वाला समय In the time coming very soon.

Rakesh (from HIMCON) was telling me about the history of the people of his village as we were walking up to his old house. The Bahuguna family came from a village near Srinagar (in Uttarakhand) about 400-500 years ago. They settled here and now there are more than 2,000 Bahugunas around the world. In every village in Garhwal, it is a similar story. All the families have the same last name because they were originally one family (which is why most of the time people from other villages). In Sabli, the name is Bahuguna; where I was in Pauri Garhwal, it is Bisht; near Uttarkashi, it is Panwar. This must be part of the reason everyone calls each other uncle/aunt, son/daughter, niece/nephew. Everyone is related even if you have to go back a few generations. Depending on age you choose the appropriate title.

Even more interesting is that the people of Garhwal consider themselves separate from India. They identify more with mountain people living throughout the entire Himalaya – including those in Pakistan, Tibet, and Nepal. The entire area did not even become a part of India until after independence (which Rakesh calls a huge mistake – however, the alternative takeovers do not look much better – China, for example). Since they did become a part of India, the central government has taken the liberty of building destructive dams throughout the mountains and disrupting the lives of these people who until very recently did not operate on a market economy. According to Rakesh and many others I have met (I would also agree based on my experience), the mountain people as a whole are pretty honest and very respectful. No matter where you go, woman or man, you are treated very well. You can eat in any house you want even if they have no money. (Meaning you have no obligation to pay.) In my travels throughout Garhwal, I have never felt threatened in any way. Although there are some exceptions I am sure, my experience has been that this is a very safe place to be. This contrasts all the news coming from cities in India where people may or may not be that way.
I am here in Sabli another week before I head out for Ashwin’s wedding. All of my young friends here tell me daily not to leave. I think it will be hard to go because I really do like the people here. However, I am excited to go catch up with some Xavier friends in India and move on with my research.

I will try to keep posting. Stay in touch!

Margaret

Meena painting a beautiful picture.
Meena teaching us some Nepali.
Rohit looking for Anjali's flip-flop which someone threw into the field.
The entire class looking for Anjali's flip flop.
Anjali without her flip flop.
Rita, Luxmi, and Reena
Sania

Sangeeta and Sania performing for the class.
Teaching the class the Cha-Cha Slide.
Learning some English.
Shanti helping with the computer class.
Some of the boys of the class.
The boys loved this picture!
Me with Sania and Sangeeta.
Making our program's slide show.
Our program on the last day!